Chiloé, Churches, and Springtime
We didn’t see any brujos on Chiloé Island. I guess it’s just as well. For centuries, these forest-dwelling creatures have been intent on harming and corrupting Chilotes. Still, it would have been something to catch a glimpse (but not a whiff) of Fiura, who’s bad breath causes sciatica in humans, and can kill smaller animals; or to catch a whiff (but not a glimpse) of Trauco who can cut down any tree with his stone hatchet, and can kill with a look.
Being more practical than dogmatic, the Jesuits who came to the island in the 17th and 18th centuries accepted the mixing of these traditional beliefs with their Christian teachings. They also established the hierarchical religious system that led to the building of the island’s wooden churches, sixteen of which are now World Heritage Sites.
We arrived in Puerto Montt after a three-day trip on a Navimag ferry up through the Chilean fjords from Puerto Natales. The trip had been a pleasant one with good company, comfortable accommodations, and sightings of dolphins, whales, Magellanic penguins, and several different kinds of albatrosses as well as other seabirds.
Chilean Fjords
Sunset, Chilean Fjords
While passing through the Golfo Corcovado, we had spent hours on deck watching and hoping to see a blue whale in this recently discovered blue whale nursery area. I’m not sure what species of whale made the few large, bushy, rounded blows that we did see. The creatures hid themselves well, refusing to show even a hint of a back or a fluke above the water.
Unfortunately, the weather was mostly grey, misty, and cloudy and we didn’t see any of the great snow and ice covered mountains that lie beyond the lower peaks that rise up out of the channels and passages. We did, however, get an idea of what lay beyond when the captain took the ship in for a close-up look at one of the many glaciers that tumble into the sea.
Skua Glacier
Shoreline Detail
From Puerto Montt, it was a 45-minute drive to the Chiloé ferry. After all the rock, forest, rain, snow, and ice of Patagonia it was a pleasant surprise to arrive to early spring in Chiloé with its pastoral landscape blanketed in spring blossoms and sunshine. The sunshine was actually a bit of a surprise, as Chiloé is well known for being grey and misty.
We spent several days exploring the numerous small villages and wooden churches that dot Chiloé’s coastline. The brightly coloured houses, and the riot of yellow springtime blossoms, stood out as in sharp contrast to the bright green of the rolling hills. Fishing boats lay on the beaches like stranded whales, waiting for the high tide that would release them from the grip of land, and return them to their rightful place on the sea.
Houses, Castro, Chiloé
Chiloé Landscape
Fishing Boats, Quemchi
There were several boatyards that made traditional wooden boats. It appeared that much of the work was still done with hand tools, and you could see how the builders would choose trees that already had the right general shape and curve for the keels.
Boat Building
The tradition of wooden construction continued to the churches. UNESCO has recognized their quality and uniqueness and has designated a number of them, including the churches at Tenaun and Vilupulli, as World Heritage Sites.
Tenaun Church
Vilupulli Church
From Chiloé we returned to Puerto Montt, and then continued to the resort town of Puerto Varas in the Southern Lakes District. Puerto Varas looks across picturesque Lake Llanquihue to the towering volcanoes Calbuco and Osorno. Unfortunately, our luck had run out with the weather, and the summits remained wreathed in clouds and rain.
It was time to leave the mists, rain, and forests of southern Chile behind. We returned to Puerto Montt and boarded a LAN A320 bound for Calama where we would pick up a car and head into the Atacama Desert, and up to the high altiplano on the borders of Chile, Argentina, and Bolivia.
